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darkhorse wrote:Before the framing I was very concerned the shed was going to be damaged by the weather (gale force winds and earthquakes etc!)...with the framework in place it is so much more solid... Im pretty sure even the 'perfect' storm won't shift it!!

never know ... wait for a tornado and you could end up in Kansas - but I think the shed would still land in one piece

I am looking to get a shed down bottom of garden and will be nicking some ideas here

Wood Magnet wrote:Even more so when you get the engine in.

Indeed

Hoovie wrote:

darkhorse wrote:Before the framing I was very concerned the shed was going to be damaged by the weather (gale force winds and earthquakes etc!)...with the framework in place it is so much more solid... Im pretty sure even the 'perfect' storm won't shift it!!

never know ... wait for a tornado and you could end up in Kansas - but I think the shed would still land in one piece

I am looking to get a shed down bottom of garden and will be nicking some ideas here

Lol

Glad to be able to offer some ideas up Hoovie

Thats what its all about

Got a question on the insulation side of the job guys

Ive got the 9mm exterior ply sheets
ive got the DPM and Ive got the fibreglass insulation....but do I need to ventilate the cavity to allow air movement and if so whats the best approach do you think?
Is it worth doing or shall I trust to the T and G cladding having some small airgaps..

And do I put the DPM over the framwork > then insulation on top?

Also, what about the roofspace?

I know the roofspace will be pretty airtight which is a bit of a concern...Is it worth putting a soffit vent at each end? Or is this also mighty overkill!!!

i am in the same predicament although less so as i dont have any noggins

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/ ... hop003.jpg

my plan is 3 good coats off preservative then topped up with 2 coats every 5 years or so
inch between wall and breathable builders paper 2 inch loft insulation then 12mm for walls and 6mm for roofs

to get propper ventilation will need around 40 vents visible from the outside or the inside
i am planning on taking my chances with just the wood breathing and if any damp appears i will check the areas watertight then bung a couple of 12mm vent holes top and bottom

Your shed is looking good Darkhorse. Can't wait to see it finished.

I got a 8 by 7 foot shed last year. Built work units out of 12mm ply. Looked in it 2 weeks ago and noticed black spores on the surface.
I think I will need to rip out all the units and start again.

The only thing that I did with the shed was give the outside 4 coats of creosote substitute. So I have enjoyed the talk that is going on and have picked up a few ideas

big-all wrote:i am in the same predicament although less so as i dont have any noggins

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/ ... hop003.jpg

my plan is 3 good coats off preservative then topped up with 2 coats every 5 years or so
inch between wall and breathable builders paper 2 inch loft insulation then 12mm for walls and 6mm for roofs

to get propper ventilation will need around 40 vents visible from the outside or the inside
i am planning on taking my chances with just the wood breathing and if any damp appears i will check the areas watertight then bung a couple of 12mm vent holes top and bottom

Hmm. Thanks for the info big all.
As you say, it seems you have the same task ahead (though the downside for you is your shed is rammed to the gills with stuff so you will have to do my nemesis and least favourite task....a clear out )

I think the solution for me is to use the DPM and coat the inside of the shed and frame with it (staple it in and then seal with tape the staple lines)... then to wadge in my insulation and then plywood on top.

Im going to use some 10mm battens behind the DPM to give a 10mm air space in the cavity to allow air to circulate.
Also, as you say, Im very confident the T & G will be able to breathe anyway so it should be fine I think


im not sure I follow your '40 vents' theory??! did you mean 4?

thanks The Weegie
Sounds like a bit of a nitemare but at least you have caught it early...
All being well if you use the methods and buildup we have discussed on this thread then hopefully it will be dry as a bone! (Im crossing fingers mine is anyway!)

well once you have put your boards on the inside youhave an airtight oblong box in my case 2ft wide by 6ft high with no air flow because theres no gaps in the wood

so without venting the six on each side 5 on one end 2 on the other
and 10 on the roof individualy with a pair you will get no air flow

big-all wrote:well once you have put your boards on the inside youhave an airtight oblong box in my case 2ft wide by 6ft high with no air flow because theres no gaps in the wood

so without venting the six on each side 5 on one end 2 on the other
and 10 on the roof individualy with a pair you will get no air flow

I see what you mean.
indeed

Oh well! I will just have to bank on the fact that the T & G will breathe slightly and there will be at 10mm airpocket in the back of each cavity so 'hopefully' this will do the trick.

I suppose if we wanted to get carried away we could do say a 10mm or larger drill hole at intervals down each stud (say every 100mm) to facilitate the flow of air around the cavity..and stop them being seperate partitions.
and then a vent the rooof at each gable end (after drilling the rafters in the same way..)

But I know of many cavity walls that dont have any venting or airflow and Ive not heard of a problem with them so not sure if its worth it...

i have considerd drilling holes but they would have to be right at the front where the gap is weakening the front edge also probably finding several screws and ruining several drill bits

also its nearly impossible to drill within an inch of a wall withough the drill bit being forced off line by the body off the drill and possibly peircing the wall

big-all wrote:i have considerd drilling holes but they would have to be right at the front where the gap is weakening the front edge also probably finding several screws and ruining several drill bits

also its nearly impossible to drill within an inch of a wall withough the drill bit being forced off line by the body off the drill and possibly peircing the wall

Hmm. How deep are your studs?? 2" iirc?
I know what you mean about awkward drilling. Mine is doable with the cordless though,but only if I get super paranoid about it!

Also, im not going to bother drilling the studs. Not worth it in my opinion.

studs are 3 inch but of course the void is at the front inch with 2" of insulation

the only way i could see 12mm holes around a shed causing enough ventilation is by attaching the dust extractor to induce enough flow

big-all wrote:studs are 3 inch but of course the void is at the front inch with 2" of insulation

the only way i could see 12mm holes around a shed causing enough ventilation is by attaching the dust extractor to induce enough flow

True big all

I will put some pics up of what Ive done in the end

Well, a couple of small updates. the atrocious English weather and dark early nights have conspired from letting me get it finished as I wanted to have by now

Heres a few update pics anyway.
and yes...it was a right PITA DPMing it with studs and noggins in place.







Also, cutting the 10mm exterior plywood for the inner skin has been a pain as well because my only workbench is the edge of the patio steps

All joints have been taped (even that used a £7 roll of gaffa tape!)

and I have now heavily beefed up the doors and fitted security, will snap a few piccies tomorrow if the rain ever stops