help me fix this mini drill

[datboi312]

https: // imgur . com/a/C73VxTK



i was just using it and it suddenly stopped working, it's new even tho i had it fo a while, didn't even go through a set of brushes



power arrives to the board. but turning it on does nothing, i think the board or something on the board is fried. what could it be? and can if find replacements? and solder it back on?

[Someone-Else]

Your link does not work.

Make / model would help
If it is under 12 months old, send it back.
If it is under 3 years old send it back under the sale of goods act

If it is a cheap one, bin it and get another

[arco_iris]

The link does work if you edit the spaces out of it, but the images cannot be reposted here due to forum not allowing the file extension type.

It's a Valex Universal 230 Plus.


https://imgur.com/a/C73VxTK

[datboi312]

Your link does not work.

Make / model would help
If it is under 12 months old, send it back.
If it is under 3 years old send it back under the sale of goods act

If it is a cheap one, bin it and get another

warranty is only 1 years here, it quite liked the drill, and it was pretty much new i haven't used it a lot. i'm pretty sure some component on the board is shot, i know how to check the resistors, don't know about the other components tho, what are they?

[Someone-Else]

Thanks to arco_iris .................... Thanks for re-typing the link (I have posted the picture for all to see, and once I knew where it was to be found, it is a simple case of add picture as normal, the picture is a normal jpeg)

don't know about the other components tho, what are they?

Looks like a couple of resistors, an inductor, couple of capacitors, a switch and an IDK*



* The "problem" is, which sort of IDK is it? It is not unusual to find an IDK in a lot of electronics today, it is usually programmed to requirements and then installed and it does what ever it is programmed to do.

The more I look, the more I think that might not be an inductor.

warranty is only 1 years here

Here being the UK? (So am I, this is after all a UK based forum) You could have tried sending it back, I did say sale of goods act, I was in error, it should be under the consumers rights act (2015) but taking it apart kind of invalidates that.

[datboi312]

Thanks to arco_iris .................... Thanks for re-typing the link (I have posted the picture for all to see, and once I knew where it was to be found, it is a simple case of add picture as normal, the picture is a normal jpeg)

don't know about the other components tho, what are they?

Looks like a couple of resistors, an inductor, couple of capacitors, a switch and an IDK*



* The "problem" is, which sort of IDK is it? It is not unusual to find an IDK in a lot of electronics today, it is usually programmed to requirements and then installed and it does what ever it is programmed to do.

The more I look, the more I think that might not be an inductor.

warranty is only 1 years here

Here being the UK? (So am I, this is after all a UK based forum) You could have tried sending it back, I did say sale of goods act, I was in error, it should be under the consumers rights act (2015) but taking it apart kind of invalidates that.

quite frankly i don't even know where i got it i don't remember.

i hooked up the motor to 220v and it runs great. so the issue is the board. both the resistors are shot i checked with a multimeter. there is a capacitor also, the other components i do not know what they are and how to check them.

if someone could tell me, i can check those too, if i'm lucky only the resistors are shot.

otherwise, how about just getting a speed regulator? i have no idea the requirements tho. the drill is 130w 220ac 8000-30000 rpm

[Someone-Else]

both the resistors are shot i checked with a multimeter.

Are you sure? Resistors should be checked when not connected to anything. The reason being that are probably in parallel with something else, and when you meter a resistor in parallel you do not get a true reading. That said if you are sure they are "shot" you could go ahead and change them.

the other components i do not know what they are and how to check them.

I already told you. (See previous post)

Speed regulator Which one will you get? You have to get it right first time or you will waste even more money on it. (But its not my money) If you are lucky enough to get a speed regulator how will you stop/start the drill? If you are thinking of connecting the drill directly to the regulator, bear in mind that all machines have an on/off switch on board so you can quickly turn it off, you can't use that button switch in the picture, its too small.

I googled your drill, seems its not sold in the UK, but it does have a close relation, it sells for around £40

quite frankly i don't even know where i got it i don't remember.

So you have had it for years then, but don't use it often.

So you have a cheap drill, that has failed and you want to spend at least half as much again on a vague chance you can make a dangerous tool from what you have left. I understand money is not free flowing, and you should "make do and mend" but something's are either too cheap to bother with or dangerous or cheap and dangerous.

For your own safety I would bin it and buy something decent.

[datboi312]

both the resistors are shot i checked with a multimeter.

Are you sure? Resistors should be checked when not connected to anything. The reason being that are probably in parallel with something else, and when you meter a resistor in parallel you do not get a true reading. That said if you are sure they are "shot" you could go ahead and change them.

the other components i do not know what they are and how to check them.

I already told you. (See previous post)

Speed regulator Which one will you get? You have to get it right first time or you will waste even more money on it. (But its not my money) If you are lucky enough to get a speed regulator how will you stop/start the drill? If you are thinking of connecting the drill directly to the regulator, bear in mind that all machines have an on/off switch on board so you can quickly turn it off, you can't use that button switch in the picture, its too small.

I googled your drill, seems its not sold in the UK, but it does have a close relation, it sells for around £40

So you have a cheap drill, that has failed and you want to spend at least half as much again on a vague chance you can make a dangerous tool from what you have left. I understand money is not free flowing, and you should "make do and mend" but something's are either too cheap to bother with or dangerous or cheap and dangerous.

For your own safety I would bin it and buy something decent.

i guess i need to take them off and check them, but when i'm checking them on the board, they give no reading, like they're shot.


wait why wouldn't i be able to use the original on-off switch? how is it too small?

i mean, yeah sure it was cheap (around 75 euro) but that's the price these drills go to, pretty sure the top of the line dremel is around 100 euro and cheap ones go for 20-40.... it's not about money tho, i just enjoy fixing things because i learn a lot of things taking stuff apart... besides, nothing is so satisfying like fixing something that's broken, at least for me

wouldn't something like this work: https:// www. amazon .it /HiLetgo-controllo-velocit%C3%A0-regolabile-regolatore/dp/B00LODGP2E ?

[Someone-Else]

wait why wouldn't i be able to use the original on-off switch? how is it too small?

Before your drill failed, the switch operated a "control circuit" if you connect direct to the motor, you by pass the control circuit

[datboi312]

wait why wouldn't i be able to use the original on-off switch? how is it too small?

Before your drill failed, the switch operated a "control circuit" if you connect direct to the motor, you by pass the control circuit

i'm not sure i'm following you here. i just hooked up the switch directly to the motor, and it acts as a on-off switch as it should?

[aeromech3]

Following with interest, due I have my B in L multi tool with same symptoms, I am sure the speed control has failed and I was thinking of protecting the On/Off switch with a cap to limit arcing, the B in L only ran it at max anyhow. Propose say a 600v A/C 0.05uf or any offers?
As the Op seems to have more electronics than the multi could these be to reverse direction?

[datboi312]

Following with interest, due I have my B in L multi tool with same symptoms, I am sure the speed control has failed and I was thinking of protecting the On/Off switch with a cap to limit arcing, the B in L only ran it at max anyhow. Propose say a 600v A/C 0.05uf or any offers?
As the Op seems to have more electronics than the multi could these be to reverse direction?

so the motor works fine without the electronic board. i'm gonna get a voltage regulator and see if that'll work

[Someone-Else]

i'm gonna get a voltage regulator and see if that'll work

How will you know which one to get, how will you connect it to your now disassembled drill, how will it be safe, how will you control it, what will you do when the regulator you get does not work as you hoped? spend more money?

it is a cheap one, bin it and get another

[datboi312]

i'm gonna get a voltage regulator and see if that'll work

How will you know which one to get, how will you connect it to your now disassembled drill, how will it be safe, how will you control it, what will you do when the regulator you get does not work as you hoped? spend more money?

it is a cheap one, bin it and get another

i mean, there is 2 wires coming out of the engines that plug into the board. the voltage regulator i bought has 4 slots, one for 220 and the other for the engine? kinda like the original board

worse case scenario i lost 4 euros and i still got me a working drill with fixed speed...