Internal cladding and nailers

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baldgeezer
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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by baldgeezer »

Hi. I’ve got to fit pine cladding to the insides of our summer house. Can someone advise if a second fix nail gun will do the job with 16g nails or should I manually nail up with ring shank? Concerned the lack of head on the nailer nails won’t hold? Trying to save my hand as I suffer from thanks joint issues after prolonged hammer use.

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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by Someone-Else »

Why not use both?
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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by dewaltdisney »

The pin nails might pull through so as SE says a mixture of both types might be better. Secret nailing through the tongues at an angle will give a good fix.

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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by big-all »

18 gauge into the "V" off the tongue at around 45% will be fine on 8mm cladding
are you talking thicker :dunno:
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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by baldgeezer »

It’s 8mm. Yeh I had thought about going into the tongue and hiding them all but was concerned about potential for warping if I didn’t fix through the board elsewhere?

Never done this before so taking all the advice I can get!
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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by dewaltdisney »

Just a point about the boards, as it is in a summer house then you need to protect the back surfaces as well as the fronts and edges. Sealing with your finish all the way around will reduce the hygroscopic action of the wood which leads to warp. A tiny gap at the bottom to prevent any damp bridging. The secret nailing through the tongues should be fine.

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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by big-all »

the reason nailing into the tongue works is because they are all locked together and the nails are at a 45% angle so more difficult to pull out
also the boards are 88mm coverage because they measure the tongue as part off the width so need around 5% more boards
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Post by baldgeezer »

big-all wrote: Sat Jun 25, 2022 10:41 am 18 gauge into the "V" off the tongue at around 45% will be fine on 8mm cladding
are you talking thicker :dunno:
I’ve got a 16g second fix nailer that I can borrow - is that going to be ok as you mention using 18g?
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Post by dewaltdisney »

A 16g is thicker than 18g so that will be fine. A 16g is one-sixteenth of an inch and an 18g is thinner so it is a bit confusing. A bit like shotguns 12 bore is bigger than a 16 or 20 bore.

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Post by baldgeezer »

dewaltdisney wrote: Sun Jun 26, 2022 9:21 am A 16g is thicker than 18g so that will be fine. A 16g is one-sixteenth of an inch and an 18g is thinner so it is a bit confusing. A bit like shotguns 12 bore is bigger than a 16 or 20 bore.

DWD
Thx! Was slightly worried a 16g would split it. What length should I get for 8mm cladding?
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Post by dewaltdisney »

I would say an inch minimum.

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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by big-all »

my thoughs
i have both the smaller 18 gauge ryobi 0ne plus and the 16 gauge ryobi guns
the 18 has a rounded nose on the locking foot which guides it into the "V" so a positive location where as the 16 has a large "D" wire base that presents a flat surface and reduces visibility a litle bit
now in general i would avoid the 16 as you need the pin in the exact place to be hidden to much towards the tongue can split it off and get in the way off the boards closing up or be visible the other way
now your machine may be able to locate within a mil or so but think at the end off an arm looking down 6 inches from the floor you need easy location to get it right :dunno:
as an aside just been out to the workshop used both guns on 8mm txg 3 bit on 2 batons 30/32mm nails on a bench and the 18 was best because off the ease to locate and by selecting 55-60% put the nail exactly in the groove where as 45 it started to climb to the face and slightly visible

aaand actual nail length will depend on batten used 15mm is 25mm and 18+ 30-32mm as a nail at 45 degree looses about 40% off its depth off plunge
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baldgeezer
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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by baldgeezer »

dewaltdisney wrote: Sun Jun 26, 2022 7:37 am Just a point about the boards, as it is in a summer house then you need to protect the back surfaces as well as the fronts and edges. Sealing with your finish all the way around will reduce the hygroscopic action of the wood which leads to warp. A tiny gap at the bottom to prevent any damp bridging. The secret nailing through the tongues should be fine.

DWD

Quick question about the sealing comment - core structure of the summer house has a breathable membrane on the inside of the external cladding and foil insulation on the inside of the framing - so about 2” gap between membrane and foil insulation. Do I still need to treat the back of the internal cladding before fitting?
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Internal cladding and nailers

Post by dewaltdisney »

New softwood tongue and groove cladding will be quite susceptible to atmospheric moisture. The hygroscopic nature of wood is that it will absorb and release moisture as the seasons change which will expand and shrink the course wood fibres causing warp. Sealing all around will help stabilise the boards.

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