I was persuaded to fit solar panels, what swung me was the battery which acted as a UPS for central heating and freezers, however not sure about the safety of the system. Before fitting I had two single points of isolation for whole house, now we have a collection of isolators, two for DC and two for AC as stand alone isolators, two built into the two consumer units, and a switch under the inverter
The central heating is powered from a FCU clearly marked EPS not checked on fuse size but to blow a 13 amp fuse within the required time needs 95 amp, I can't see the PSCC from the inverter being high enough, so it would need RCD protection which the central heating has not got. Everything else has, two RCD sockets for the freezers also EPS, and rest all RCBO, but central heating no RCD protection.
I thought OK no big problem fit a RCD FCU but then realised no idea of how to turn the supply off.
Anyone got any ideas of the regulations breached? Had the compliance certificate before the work was completed, and not had any installation certificates, or the other certificates for grid tie etc.
which we can't reach as there is a battery in front of it.What has god wrought, solar panels!
Moderator: Moderators
- ericmark
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4261
- Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 2:43 am
- Location: Mid Wales
- Has thanked: 116 times
- Been thanked: 783 times
What has god wrought, solar panels!
They say they will talk me though the proving dead procedure, but to my mind there should be 5 not 4 isolator switches, two for DC, one for power into the grid, one for power out of the grid, and one for emergency power independent of the grid.
I am finding it hard to get my head around the displays, this is it seems reasonably accurate, but there is no feed out energy, we know how much we have used, how much we have exported, how much has gone into the battery, and how much solar generation, I would assume what we have used from grid is consumption - (Solar yield - [Feed in energy + Battery charge]) but not sure about this.
Because now using an immersion heater my consumption is up on what it use to be, the iboost is designed to use power only after the house and battery re-charge demand has been satisfied. But found it running at 9 pm, which it should not do, reading instructions it says you need 100 mm between the CT coils, but the tail from meter to henley block is only around 100 mm, so with the inverter coil hard against the henley block and the iboost half way between it and meter I now need to retest, but unless in bedroom when iboost turns on, how would I know it was running? In bedroom I can hear it singing when running.
The iboost+ fitted is not just a simple switch, it can regulate how much power goes into the water, so it often says 180 watt for example, if it was 3 kW then we would see on the display when it was running, but what I see is this so I know total house is using, but not how much to power immersion independent of rest of house.
Electric costs more than oil, so don't want to use electric from the grid, only excess solar. But unless I take the cover off the consumer unit, I can't put my clamp on jaws around just the immersion heater.
I am finding it hard to get my head around the displays, this is it seems reasonably accurate, but there is no feed out energy, we know how much we have used, how much we have exported, how much has gone into the battery, and how much solar generation, I would assume what we have used from grid is consumption - (Solar yield - [Feed in energy + Battery charge]) but not sure about this.
Because now using an immersion heater my consumption is up on what it use to be, the iboost is designed to use power only after the house and battery re-charge demand has been satisfied. But found it running at 9 pm, which it should not do, reading instructions it says you need 100 mm between the CT coils, but the tail from meter to henley block is only around 100 mm, so with the inverter coil hard against the henley block and the iboost half way between it and meter I now need to retest, but unless in bedroom when iboost turns on, how would I know it was running? In bedroom I can hear it singing when running.
The iboost+ fitted is not just a simple switch, it can regulate how much power goes into the water, so it often says 180 watt for example, if it was 3 kW then we would see on the display when it was running, but what I see is this so I know total house is using, but not how much to power immersion independent of rest of house.
Electric costs more than oil, so don't want to use electric from the grid, only excess solar. But unless I take the cover off the consumer unit, I can't put my clamp on jaws around just the immersion heater.
- ericmark
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4261
- Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 2:43 am
- Location: Mid Wales
- Has thanked: 116 times
- Been thanked: 783 times
What has god wrought, solar panels!
I have changed to offset on iboost+ from 100 watt to 200 watt and it seems to have cured the problem, now it is the change of habit, 10 am and just got 20% charge in the batteries, so shower needs to 10 am to 3 pm to use solar power, we need to cook dinner earlier as well. Change from breakfast, lunch and dinner to breakfast, dinner, and tea. So all cooking done midday.
The main problem seems to be lack of paperwork, had the iboost+ instructions been left with us, it would have been far easier, still waiting on the installation certificate and G99 although the compliance certificate was available to down load before the work was complete, how one passes over the down load link to new owners when one sells the house I don't know, would have expected a hard copy.
The main problem seems to be lack of paperwork, had the iboost+ instructions been left with us, it would have been far easier, still waiting on the installation certificate and G99 although the compliance certificate was available to down load before the work was complete, how one passes over the down load link to new owners when one sells the house I don't know, would have expected a hard copy.