What are the best brands.
I want to replace two halogen floodlights which are on the front of the house. Is 100W LED equivalent to 500W halogen? I've checked the lumens and I think 100W is the correct power rating. I'm concerned that going greater than 100W will cause a nuisance and complaints from the neighbours.
I've shortlisted the following:
Timeguard:
https://www.cosmoelectrical.com/product ... ight-black
Ansell:
https://www.internet-electrical.co.uk/l ... TIEALw_wcB
Sylvania:
https://www.sparkle.co.uk/sylvania-100w ... black-led/
Ledvance:
https://theledspecialist.co.uk/ledvance ... -ip65.html
I know that Steinell are the best brand but they I'm unable to find a 100W model.
Recommended brands for LED Floodlights
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- Distorted Vision
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Recommended brands for LED Floodlights
as a rough idea divide the lumens by 13 to get the old watts equivalent so 100w actual in leds would be around 1300w or nearing 3 times the light output you want
but just a rough guide
so iff you want 500w equivalent then around 6500 lumens
but just a rough guide
so iff you want 500w equivalent then around 6500 lumens
we are all ------------------still learning
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Recommended brands for LED Floodlights
My2p worth.
They all want your money, so they have a light made for as little money as possible, long gone are the days when you could say this brand of light is better than that brand. The "problem" with LED lighting is that it can not run directly from the mains, the voltage has to be dropped to the required voltage (Depending on the configuration of the actual single LEDs) To drop the voltage a variety of options exist (Pointless going into it now) its these components and there assembly that are the main problem, if not expensive parts are used or not assembled right and cheap LEDs are used a product with unknown reliability is produced, and at the end of the day all manufacturers want to keep the costs down.
In short, you can no longer say brand X is better than brand K (That said Philips are very good) so it really is take your pick. All I can say is make sure its from a reputable seller, has a long guarantee and KEEP THE RECEIPT
Oh, and watts is wrong for lamps.
Back in the day the watts (on a lamp) was how much electricity a lamp used, not its brightness, but everyone assumed it was the intensity of the lamp.
As big-all says its Lumens you need, also bear in mind colour temperature. Most say LED lamps are cold in colour, that is because technically they are, but in short LED lamps are Blue/white or Orange/white or a mix
Good luck, keep that receipt
They all want your money, so they have a light made for as little money as possible, long gone are the days when you could say this brand of light is better than that brand. The "problem" with LED lighting is that it can not run directly from the mains, the voltage has to be dropped to the required voltage (Depending on the configuration of the actual single LEDs) To drop the voltage a variety of options exist (Pointless going into it now) its these components and there assembly that are the main problem, if not expensive parts are used or not assembled right and cheap LEDs are used a product with unknown reliability is produced, and at the end of the day all manufacturers want to keep the costs down.
In short, you can no longer say brand X is better than brand K (That said Philips are very good) so it really is take your pick. All I can say is make sure its from a reputable seller, has a long guarantee and KEEP THE RECEIPT
Oh, and watts is wrong for lamps.
Back in the day the watts (on a lamp) was how much electricity a lamp used, not its brightness, but everyone assumed it was the intensity of the lamp.
As big-all says its Lumens you need, also bear in mind colour temperature. Most say LED lamps are cold in colour, that is because technically they are, but in short LED lamps are Blue/white or Orange/white or a mix
Good luck, keep that receipt
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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Recommended brands for LED Floodlights
I have found that they are all a bit rubbish now. My original halogen lamp detected movement about 100 feet away, the LED ones I have after have a very short range, about 6 feet, that is nigh on useless. The detectors are not as good. My car has the stay-on lights that let you get to your door before fading. My porch lamp has a movement-detection built in which is excellent for a cheap lamp bulb.
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Recommended brands for LED Floodlights
I have 7 carriage lamps, 6 use bulbs, one is an integral lamp, and the main difference is the LED's are in the top, so shine down, and what a difference, it lights the area so much better to the others.
So in the main my outside lights are for access, I do have an old metal halide lamp for the BBQ, but that is portable, and not left out. The limit without planning was 150 watt outside, I do not think this has changed with the LED, but if I look at the old 70 watt metal halide lamp, I have to question why anyone wants a lamp bigger than that? It lights up the whole garden, the two lights on the gate posts which I would think no more than 15 watt each, on a house three houses away and across the main road still annoy me, they shine into my bed room, and stop my ever seeing northern lights, they are globes, so most of the light goes up, including to my house.
So 30 watt is claimed as the equivalent to 150 watt incandescent, so I would say rule of thumb 30 watt should be regarded as the limit for outside lights, without planning permission, except as a temporary light for BBQ's and the like.
That is also the problem I found, any PIR controlled lamp, has a trade off, too sensitive and a little wind sets them off, not sensitive enough, and the lights switch off before one has left the illuminated area, leaving one standing with hands full of shopping, in the dark trying to find the next step. But my lamps are now only 12 watt anyway, so being on a little longer is not going to break the bank, so today most are on smart controls, and I turn them on when required, before even stepping out of the car.dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Wed Nov 06, 2024 12:56 pm My original halogen lamp detected movement about 100 feet away, the LED ones I have after have a very short range, about 6 feet, that is nigh on useless.
So in the main my outside lights are for access, I do have an old metal halide lamp for the BBQ, but that is portable, and not left out. The limit without planning was 150 watt outside, I do not think this has changed with the LED, but if I look at the old 70 watt metal halide lamp, I have to question why anyone wants a lamp bigger than that? It lights up the whole garden, the two lights on the gate posts which I would think no more than 15 watt each, on a house three houses away and across the main road still annoy me, they shine into my bed room, and stop my ever seeing northern lights, they are globes, so most of the light goes up, including to my house.
So 30 watt is claimed as the equivalent to 150 watt incandescent, so I would say rule of thumb 30 watt should be regarded as the limit for outside lights, without planning permission, except as a temporary light for BBQ's and the like.