Stave Worktop joint/scarf in

[martintideend]

Hi All - first post here and hoping someone might be able to provide some advice?

I need to make some changes to a 4m + walnut stave worktop that I would really prefer not to have to replace! Pic attached below.

Item (A) is the 4m run. I need to move part (B) back to the window line (C). This will leave a void which I have labelled (D). I have matching worktop to fill (D) and then reoil everything. However I suspect that the obvious solution of butt joining the endgrains at line (F) will end up showing a very obvious join. The only other solution I can think of is to cut out one or more staves in (A) along line F and try to cut matching fingers in the new piece to be inserted in (D). Unfortunately I'm a just about competent DIYer, not a cabinet maker, so not confident I wont mess that up, if its even a realistic option for someone suitably skilled!

Does anyone have any other ideas or comments?

Thanks in advance!

WhatsApp Image 2025-03-03 at 10.55.33_d05a7593.jpg (225.78 KiB) Viewed 130 times

[dewaltdisney]

The difficult bit will be grain matching and moving the (probable) joining bolts underneath. When worktops are fitted they have a routered channel cut under for the bolts to pull them tight. Quite often there are biscuit joints glued in as leveling and joining strength. Have a look to get an idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYymBNgFIlU With this in mind you could have a visible damaged edge when you remove B seD couldction to move it. The infill D could be supported by cleats screwed and glued under A to give a support lip for D to be fixed to. I am afraid this might be harder than you think but achievable. Have a look underneath the existing to A joint to see what is there.

DWD

[martintideend]

Thanks - that is very useful. I hadnt thought about damage when I remove the existing - assumed that that would be the easy bit! I have some 3mm sheet aluminium I was going to use to level underneath where it would be seen as havent done biscuit joints before. One specific question though - what do you mean about grain matching - as far as I can see, each stave already has a distinct grain..?

[dewaltdisney]

I meant cutting the infill panel to marry up and look natural to the grain of the adjacent boards. It needs care to make it look right. You could cut a thin strip to make a veneer to cover the damaged face.

DWD

[big-all]

general comments
iff you have a sliding mitre saw and router then you can risk what i think will look between ok to awful filling in "d" as dwd says grain wont match and stand out
"d" will need full support all round as cant be structurally incorporated to whats there
that needs to be batons on all connected edges or dowels/biscuits or worktop bolts
iff you have limited skills and limited tools your restricted to batons underneath screwed in
also iff the worktop has a pencil edge or round over at all you need to remove that edge to 100% square before trying to connect

also any Finnish applied needs removing on mating faces to allow gluing