Which cable

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:39 pm

I am planning to lay the wiring for the sparks to connect my sockets and light in my kitchen to the mains (haven't sort a sparks yet) so which cable core should I be using for the sockets 2.5 TE? and the lights?? Thanks

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:02 pm

when you say lay the wiring where are you intending to run it?

I presume you are aware of the safe zones to run cables in

And yes 2.5mm for the sockets and 1.0 mm or 1.5mm for the lighting (depending on the load)

the sockets must be in a ring

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 9:01 am

Hi Tim, I have 17 sockets and 10 240vIP65 Cast shower lights (suitable for kitchens). There is also an existing cokker point that I have to move plus 2 fused switches one for the extractor and one for the under cabinet down lights. What do you suggest, I can draught you up a sketch if it would help. Many thanks for your help (in advance)

sparkydude · Post by **sparkydude** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 5:40 pm

a drawing will be a great help in assisting you , but you will have to report this work to your local building control office as it has to be notified to them as it is in a kitchen ., if it was your lounge you can do what you want, but becuase they now class the kitchen as a special location you have to be Part P registered to work in them . But as for laying the cables in , this will be allowed as long as it is inspected before the cables are buried or enclosed by the plasterboard.

Nick

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 5:57 pm

Does that mean I have to inform the building control office even if I am getting an electrician to wire it all up. I just want to get the cables in so I can get on with all the other bits (including plasterboarding and plastering) also I have the kitchen fitters coming in three weeks and this all has to be finnished.

sparkydude · Post by **sparkydude** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 6:00 pm

if you are using an electrician to do your kitchen wiring then he must be Part P registered, and if you are planning on running the cables yourself then you need to make sure the electrician tells you how he wants it done or else he will probably not want to touch it with a bargepole. My advice to you is to get him on board now and liase with him.

Nick

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 6:04 pm

Ok Nick, I'll draft up a diagram of what I have planned and tell me what you think.

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:02 pm

I have added a rough plan of the kitchen sockets, see what you think. I need to spur a second fused switch but as it is for under counter lighting I am going to add the spur to the lighting in the kitchen? If thats right? Thanks for your time Nick

sparkydude · Post by **sparkydude** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:50 pm

looks fine to me, but really waht we need to know is how you are going to run the cables. also is the fusebox original or new and has it got enough spare ways to supply your needs. i would recommend that you run some of the appliances on their own radials from the board as it will take a bit of the load off of the ring main. as for under unit lighting are you sure you want to run that froma spur? why not just have a 2 gang switch for the cupboard lights and the normal lights. What about electric oven or hob ?? or are they gas

if you need any more help just shout

Nick

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:20 pm

I am ripping the ceiling plasterboard down so I am going to feed the cable through the ceiling and thread the cable down to the socket and along and the same level as each socket which will be 100mm above the worktop. This will be the Blue highlighted sockets on my plan. I was thinking of running a second ring below the worktop which will take the dishwasher, washing machine, fridge, freezer, fridge draws and wine chiller. What do you think. The kitchen fitter has told me the under cabinet light must run from a fused switch, thats why I was going to run a spur from the lighting ring? The oven is electric, but that just needs moving. I have been told that the fuse box needs a RCD??? and it would be better to get a new box that already had one?? also a new earthing rod ?? but he told me that by just opening the fuse box door,this advise was the kitchen fitter so i'm not sure.

sparkydude · Post by **sparkydude** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:28 pm

Two rings is probably a good idea in your case, however your proposed wiring routes are not in compliance with the regulations, you cannot run cables horizontally beween accesories on a wall, you will either have to chase down to each socket outlet or run the ring main around surface clipped below the worktops and rise up to the sockets. Ignore your kitchen fitter he sounds like he knows everything and really knows nothing. You will need to have a new fusebox installed which will incorpaorate an rcd for the above worktop sockets , as they could conceivably be used to supply equipment outdoors. As for the spur for the cupboard lights, just run a feed for your lighting circuit to your new switch, then out to the cupboard lights, there is no point in having a spur at all. you do not have a lighting 'ring' it is always run as a radial . How he knows you need a new earth riod is beyond me i must admit, just by looking at the fuse box door, did he have X ray specs on??/ WHere abouts are you based ?

ANy more questions feel free to PM me or ask on here.

Nick

taptaptap · Post by **taptaptap** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:37 pm

Ilkeston, Derbyshire if you fancy a job !! The cable are no problem because it's all stud walling so I can easily run all the cables down. I thought the same as you about the kitchen fitter. I want the whole house rewiring but I just need to get the kitchen done first.