Best tools for fitting laminate

jason123 · Post by **jason123** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:43 pm

I have done it before with a jigsaw

, Im just thinking that laying the floor at 45 degrees, thats an awful lot of mitre cuts to do, what do you recommend, cheers, Jas

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:53 pm

Chop saw, you can just adjust it to the correct angle and lop it off each time

I'd lend you mine, but a friend has it at the minute

jason123 · Post by **jason123** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:03 pm

I saw a really flimsy one in B&Q yesterday, it had really flimsy plastic feet, just asking to break off, how much do they start at with a metal base???

jason123 · Post by **jason123** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:13 pm

b*llocks, the laminate boards are 156mm wide thats 220mm when mitred

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:38 pm

Not sure how much a decent one starts at.

A jigsaw will still cut them easily, or a circular saw.

You could do with making a template then it would be a doddle.

owen · Post by **owen** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:37 pm

i would not use a chop saw, the laminate will blunt the blade very quickly.

i always use a jigsaw as the blades are cheap to replace, i get through a couple per room usually.

Hitch · Post by **Hitch** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:40 pm

Jiggasawus, cut upside down saves the edges ;)

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:19 pm

jigsaw it

owens right you will have f*ck the blade by half way across the room

jason123 · Post by **jason123** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:52 pm

I really wanted to buy an expensive bit of kit

jigsaw it is then, again

Id convinced the mrs I needed a sliding compound mitre saw, she even said, if you need it get it

More downcut blades for Jason

Gadget · Post by **Gadget** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 12:05 am

Jase, tell Ms J this is the only tool that will cut laminate flooring accurately, so you really need to buy it!. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/63169/Pow ... e-Saw-240V

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:49 am

On the advice of Carhartt Kid, I bought one of these -
BAHCO Superior Hard Point Laminator Handsaw

and will be using Metal jigsaw blades for the tricky and curvy cuts (cheers Chez

)

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:26 am

i use jigsaw 101b or d blade[several]

combination square great marking line accross or along the full length or at 45%
can also be handy for measuring the distance of pipes or other uneven surfaces by sliding the head along the ruler untill it touches the pipes ect

fretsaw /jigsaw fine blade for fine work [several spare blades]

handsaw /sharp chisel for undercutting frames

fixing kit/hammer

loads of pencils

and last of all if i use quad if i can i use wooden quad painted the colour of the skirting and costs around 50p a meter

jason123 · Post by **jason123** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:19 am

Cheers fellas,

Gadget, the 45 degree cut is 218mm I know the board would probably snap the remaining two mm, but at nearly £600 I think its a bit expensive for a tool that nearly does the job.

Hoovie, I dont mind a bit of sawing but too much and I get careless and sloppy as I get tired, usually about halfway through the first cut.

Big Al, Im going to grind the teeth off a knackered old saw, and use it for marking out. I always like length of them when sorting out 90 or 45 cuts. I have marked woodwork with the teeth before hence grinding them off, oh and every so often the lad wants to help, he can have a race with me sawing timber

Hitch · Post by **Hitch** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:17 pm

Get the chopsaw, youll win everytime

I got some of theese bosch blades the other day, cuts nice tight curves.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/36303/Bla ... net-T101AO

jason123 · Post by **jason123** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:55 am

Which chopsaw Hitch, it has to do a 220mm cut length when mitred